I’ve been shopping for luxury secondhand and vintage since I was a teenager. I used to seek out premium vintage stores for leather jackets and vintage band T-shirts, partly because I loved the individuality of wearing something that nobody else could simply go out and buy and copy. That sense of individuality has always been one of the things I love about pre-loved clothing, and probably explains why I’ve always had such an affinity with Bay Garnett’s approach to secondhand fashion.
But the secondhand market has changed considerably since then. As buying pre-loved became more mainstream, the sheer volume of clothing entering the market increased too. There is now an enormous amount of poorly made, disposable clothing circulating through the secondhand market. So today, I think shopping secondhand requires something more than simply knowing where to look. It requires discernment.
Secondhand Doesn’t Automatically Mean Better
One of the misconceptions around secondhand shopping is that buying something pre-loved automatically makes it a better purchase. It doesn’t. Nor does an expensive or recognisable designer label automatically mean something is better made, more comfortable or more appropriate for you. I’ve owned Jimmy Choo shoes and Office boots, and I’ve worn the Office boots more because they were more comfortable. Sometimes the unexpected brand can turn out to be the better piece.
That’s one of the things I find interesting about shopping pre-loved. You can find exceptional quality in unexpected places, alongside vintage and designer pieces with beautiful craftsmanship, interesting provenance and a history that you simply won’t find in a new collection.
Today, my work is more focused on the woman who has the means to invest in her wardrobe. For her, the question isn’t simply “Can I buy this secondhand?” It’s “Is this worth buying?” And that is a rather different question.
What Makes a Secondhand Purchase Worthwhile?
If you are looking for quality, longevity and individuality, the pre-loved market can be an extraordinary resource. You might find an exceptional vintage piece, an archive design that is no longer available, a beautifully constructed garment from an earlier era, or something from a less obvious brand that simply happens to have been made exceptionally well.
But you need to know what you are looking at. You need to be able to assess the fabric, construction, condition and fit. You need to understand what can be altered and what cannot. You need to recognise when something has genuine quality and when a low price is simply reflecting the quality of the garment. And you need to know when to walk away.
For me, it comes back to being intentional about what you buy and understanding where you sit, what matters to you and what is genuinely worth having. There is more on that in Sustainable Luxury: Navigating the Grey.
10 Tips for Shopping Luxury Secondhand
Be Clear About What You Need
Create a list so you are clear about what your wardrobe actually needs before you start shopping. This doesn’t mean being rigid. It simply gives you a point of reference. When you understand the gaps in your wardrobe and what would genuinely add value, you’re much more likely to recognise the right piece when you find it.
Don’t Confuse a Good Find With a Good Purchase
When you find yourself drawn to something you don’t need, stop and ask yourself why. Is it genuinely going to add something to your wardrobe? Will you wear it? Does it work with what you already own? Or is the excitement simply coming from the fact that you’ve found something unusual or rare? Secondhand shopping can be just as tempting as buying new. The fact that something is pre-loved doesn’t automatically make it a worthwhile purchase.
Don’t Be Ruled by the Size on the Label
Don’t overlook the right piece because it isn’t your usual size. Vintage sizing can be particularly misleading, and a garment that is slightly larger can often be altered to fit you beautifully. A good alteration can make an exceptional piece work for you, so look at the garment itself rather than simply the number on the label. If you need someone in London, I keep a list of clothing alteration specialists.
Understand the Fabric and How to Care for It
Before you commit to purchasing, always check the care label. Are you prepared to care for the fabric as recommended? Understanding fabrics is an important part of recognising quality. A beautiful wool, silk, cashmere or linen garment can be a wonderful secondhand find, but only if you are prepared to look after it properly. There is more on materials in the sustainable fabric guide.
Always Check the Quality
Sadly, so much cheap, badly made fake luxury brands have now flooded the secondhand clothing market. Look closely at the construction. Examine the fabric, seams, fastenings and finishing. Consider how the garment has been made and whether it is likely to last. If you’re trying to build a wardrobe based on quality rather than quantity, this is one of the most important checks you can make.
Check the Condition Carefully
Always carry out a rigorous check for imperfections before you buy. Look at the fabric, seams, hems, buttons, zips and areas that are likely to show wear. Not every imperfection means you should walk away. A beautifully made piece may still be worth buying if something can be repaired or altered. The important thing is to understand what you’re buying and whether you’re prepared to live with, or address, anything that needs attention.
Know Your Measurements
Shopping for secondhand clothes online can be much more hit and miss, particularly when buying vintage. Make sure you know your own body measurements so you can compare them with the measurements of the garment before you commit to purchasing. I wrote a separate guide on how to measure your body accurately. Don’t rely solely on the size given by the seller.
Look at the Garment, Not the Label
This is particularly important when shopping for vintage. Body shapes and clothing sizes have changed considerably over the decades, so the size on a vintage label may tell you very little about whether something will actually fit. If you want a fuller picture of proportion, there is also the dressing for your body shape guide. Go by the measurements and proportions of the garment rather than the number on the label.
Look for Potential
One of the things I love about working with pre-loved clothing is the potential. A garment doesn’t necessarily need to arrive looking exactly as you imagine it. Could it be altered? Could it be styled differently? Could you wear it in a way you hadn’t initially considered? Being able to see the potential in a piece, rather than simply searching for an exact image in your head, is one of the great advantages of having an experienced eye.
Know Where to Look
There are now so many places to find pre-loved clothes, from vintage and high-end pieces to specialist resale platforms and auctions. There are also increasingly sophisticated specialist resellers offering curated pre-owned designer and luxury pieces. If you want a starting list of labels, there is a separate guide to vintage fashion labels to look out for. If you’re looking for something specific, understanding which sources are most likely to have the quality, provenance or particular designers you’re interested in can make the process considerably more efficient.
Secondhand Shopping: The Bigger Picture
These ten tips are really about becoming more discerning about what comes into your wardrobe. When we first try to change our shopping habits, it’s very easy to replace buying new with buying too much secondhand. A secondhand wardrobe can become just as cluttered as any other wardrobe. For me, the opportunity is not simply to buy something because it is pre-loved. It is to find something worth having.
That might be a beautifully made vintage piece, an archive design, a contemporary designer garment or an unexpected brand that happens to have produced something exceptional. Sometimes the best purchase won’t be the most expensive one. Sometimes it won’t have the most recognisable label. And sometimes it won’t be the obvious choice at all. That’s where discernment comes in.
Secondhand or pre-loved should be part of a considered approach to building a wardrobe, not simply another reason to shop. And while Secondhand September is a useful reminder to look at how and what we buy, the principle is relevant all year round. Don’t just ask whether you can buy it secondhand. Ask whether it deserves a place in your wardrobe.
First published September 2021. Updated September 2026.
